After a night of thunder and lightening (which Hiro slept through- bless him) we caught the bus to Lynton from Combe Bartin. When we got there we vistied the farmers market and bought postcards. Very touristy!!!
We were very close to the railway (basically a lift from Lynmouth to Lynton!) so we headed there to look for the acorn signs - not a one! Then we read the book which suggested we took Hallidday Hill as that was more rewarding and would get us to North Walk anyway. So we followed it - at this point Roaland Tarr and the SWCP become conflicting in directions so we just end up trying to find our own way!!!! Nothing major but time consuming and and scary as I am aware it is going to be a long day!
We found the Valley of Rocks and was in awe of the hight of someof the rocks. Anyway Castle Rock was where it all came together but by that time I had climbed Castle Rock and was looking for a down path the other side - nealry killed myself in the process and lost my highly valuabele UNISON sun hat! It was a short walk to Lee Abbey and Roland T and SWCP came into conflict again but I got there in the end and walked down to a little cottage. Just before Lee Abbey there was a baby deer stuck in a field - there was quite an audience watching the poor thing! Fortunately the park keepers were on the their way to sort it out.
Anyway true to the path we passed all the usual points but the views were fab and going through the wwods we were ready for dinner at the Hunters Inn. To say I was gutted that the kitchen was closed at 3.30 was an understatement! I knew the next bit was going to be difficult and I could really do with being fed before I started out on a 900 foot climb to the top of the highest point of the whole walk.
A lovely couple offered to give me alift to nearer Combe Martin - it was very tempting but I knew that I would have to return so decided to set forth and accomplish my journey - it was now 4pm and I set off determined to get it done!
The only worry I did have was that I needed to have a good pace as the light would go and thenI could end up on the hills in the dark!
The walk from Heddons Mouth to the top of Cleve was not as bad as I thought it would be but around Peter's Rock was really scary! Ironically in the SWCP guide it says that it should not be contemplated if it is not good weather - I was on it and going round before I realised - I must learn to read a map I could have got into loads of trouble! It was at this point that the wind started to blow and I ended up putting Hiro on his lead just to make sure that he didnt blowoff the hill!
I begun to have a lot of sympathy for the girl on the hill down to Hunters Inn who took fright and scuttled down the hill in fear.
I then managed to lose my way as there was a path diversion which meant I walked up the path and then along the road to Combe Martin and ended up at Holdstone Down Fork. Imagine my great disappointment and fear to realise that this was 5 miles from my destination - I was sure I had travelled further and it was now about 6pm :(
However I finally found an acorn that got me back on the beaten path by now I was fully dressed in t-shirt, jumpers and jacket it was windy and very cold!
Along Red Cleve and towards Great Hangman. Now the guide says this is 2 miles - it felt much less however the next 3 miles were definately much further . Down and through Sherrycombe up and over Great Hangman and towards Little Hangman by this time the sun was showing signs of setting and I was having nightmares about getting caught on the hills! I saw the signs to go up to Little Hangman's viewpoint but decided to give it a miss! The sheep were baffled that Hiro and I were out on the hills so late in the evening after all this was their territory at this time of the evening. We found a footpath down to Combe Martin and walked down to civilisation Whew I was getting a little worried about getting caught but I DID IT!!!
I celbrated with a delicious lamb kebab but I wasn't sharing - I have to share my tent with Hiro and I wasnt taking any chances!
Monday 16 May 2011
Postcard 7 Combe Martin to Lee 8 miles 'ish
Today, due to the bus service being non existant between Lynmouth to Combe Martin during the week I decided to do the next stretch first and then to back track to Lynmouth the following day (Saturday)
So I thought that today was going to be an easy day - not too far, but there was to be a stretch that would be quite strenuous near the end.
Up and at them - we were going to leave early to make up for our lazy day yesterday! The path was virtually outside the camp so there was no getting lost today! It was a bit hilly but nothing like the previous days or was I getting fit? The path took us through Watermouth Valley Park and this was a truly beautiful spot. As we walked along the edge of the site we saw some very dramatic cliff edges and some really stunning little islands dotted about in front of some secluded coves. It was quite overwhelming to realise that there were so many little coves that could only be accessed by sea. Now I know that many would say that this fact is written in many a book but to actually see it was quite a thunderbolt!
At Watermouth harbour the tide was in so we had to take the road route but it wasnt far but very busy. Much of the walk was shaded by trees but the temmprature was rising.
Further along we got to Rillage Point where I saw a large black bird sunbathing and drying his wings whilst sitting upon a large rock that was way below me! I was later told that it was a shag! Anyway at this point, in attempting to work out where I was, I checked the guide that mentioned the coastguard cottages I looked all along the coast and couldnt see them so thought I had either missed them or that I hadnt got quite that far. It was only as I turned to follow the path that I spotted them further up the hill behind me DOH!
We walked into Hele where there was a little caravan park right in the middle of the village on the edge of the cliff. We then climbed up and over Hillsborough and dropped slowly into Ilfracombe which brings you into the working harbour. Hiro was fascinated with the wonderful smells and being fete'd by all onlookers. He is beginning to feel like a superstar! We walk up into the town to find a cashpoint and some late breakfast it is then that I realise that it is nearly 12 and I am quite surprised that it is that late!
Anyway fry up for me and sausage and mash for Hiro (who thinks it is his birthday!) We are now ready to set off again but not before I buy some shorts from a charity shop as it is now so hot that I am beginning to burn!
All sorted we head for Woolacombe knowing full well that we have to get there for 5 or we wont be able to get back to Combe Martin - the busses are beginning to become a difficulty to my journey.
We set off towards Woolacombe which takes us past the unusual shaped theatre. As we go up the hills and out of Ilfracombe it was fortunately blowing enough to keep us sufficiently fresh and invigorated. We kept going upwards passing the bay where the male and female bathers had their own cove and a guard to protect the womens honour!
Hiro and I pressed forward feeling in good spirits towards seven Hills where we met 4 women who were walking our way. We got got chatting and these Austrian women were totally besotted with Hiro who naturally flirted in his own cheeky way. We fell into walking along together and continued towards Lee which was a half way marker. By the time we got there it was 3.30 and the worst part was still to be done - It was marked as strenuous and there was 5 miles to be done! Knowing my wonderful pace of walking I decided to call it a day and join my new found friends in a cream tea in the Grampus Inn - although a pleasant enough and helpful pub the crockery left a lot to be desired! Together we joined forces and got taxis back to Ilfracombe and then I got the bus back to Combe Martin - not as far as I would have liked but given the bus service as far as I could reasonably go without getting into difficulties - a little frustrating but I could pick it up at a later point.
Regardless thanks to a very relaxed cream tea and long conversations I got back to the site at 8pm - Race you to bed Hiro!! Another long day tomorrow woo hoo!
So I thought that today was going to be an easy day - not too far, but there was to be a stretch that would be quite strenuous near the end.
Up and at them - we were going to leave early to make up for our lazy day yesterday! The path was virtually outside the camp so there was no getting lost today! It was a bit hilly but nothing like the previous days or was I getting fit? The path took us through Watermouth Valley Park and this was a truly beautiful spot. As we walked along the edge of the site we saw some very dramatic cliff edges and some really stunning little islands dotted about in front of some secluded coves. It was quite overwhelming to realise that there were so many little coves that could only be accessed by sea. Now I know that many would say that this fact is written in many a book but to actually see it was quite a thunderbolt!
At Watermouth harbour the tide was in so we had to take the road route but it wasnt far but very busy. Much of the walk was shaded by trees but the temmprature was rising.
Further along we got to Rillage Point where I saw a large black bird sunbathing and drying his wings whilst sitting upon a large rock that was way below me! I was later told that it was a shag! Anyway at this point, in attempting to work out where I was, I checked the guide that mentioned the coastguard cottages I looked all along the coast and couldnt see them so thought I had either missed them or that I hadnt got quite that far. It was only as I turned to follow the path that I spotted them further up the hill behind me DOH!
We walked into Hele where there was a little caravan park right in the middle of the village on the edge of the cliff. We then climbed up and over Hillsborough and dropped slowly into Ilfracombe which brings you into the working harbour. Hiro was fascinated with the wonderful smells and being fete'd by all onlookers. He is beginning to feel like a superstar! We walk up into the town to find a cashpoint and some late breakfast it is then that I realise that it is nearly 12 and I am quite surprised that it is that late!
Anyway fry up for me and sausage and mash for Hiro (who thinks it is his birthday!) We are now ready to set off again but not before I buy some shorts from a charity shop as it is now so hot that I am beginning to burn!
All sorted we head for Woolacombe knowing full well that we have to get there for 5 or we wont be able to get back to Combe Martin - the busses are beginning to become a difficulty to my journey.
We set off towards Woolacombe which takes us past the unusual shaped theatre. As we go up the hills and out of Ilfracombe it was fortunately blowing enough to keep us sufficiently fresh and invigorated. We kept going upwards passing the bay where the male and female bathers had their own cove and a guard to protect the womens honour!
Hiro and I pressed forward feeling in good spirits towards seven Hills where we met 4 women who were walking our way. We got got chatting and these Austrian women were totally besotted with Hiro who naturally flirted in his own cheeky way. We fell into walking along together and continued towards Lee which was a half way marker. By the time we got there it was 3.30 and the worst part was still to be done - It was marked as strenuous and there was 5 miles to be done! Knowing my wonderful pace of walking I decided to call it a day and join my new found friends in a cream tea in the Grampus Inn - although a pleasant enough and helpful pub the crockery left a lot to be desired! Together we joined forces and got taxis back to Ilfracombe and then I got the bus back to Combe Martin - not as far as I would have liked but given the bus service as far as I could reasonably go without getting into difficulties - a little frustrating but I could pick it up at a later point.
Regardless thanks to a very relaxed cream tea and long conversations I got back to the site at 8pm - Race you to bed Hiro!! Another long day tomorrow woo hoo!
Postcard 6 moving day - to Combe Martin
Well today was supposed to be walking from Lynmouth to Combe Martin but it meant getting up early, driving to Combe Martin, setting up tent then getting the bus to Lynmouth. EASY? I dont think so!! For a start the very nice man in the tent next door spent ages talking to me. I was on go slow and Hiro just stayed in bed and had to be physically moved!
Anyway the upshot was that we left very late!! The car nearly died going up Porlock Hill - now that IS a very big hill! The poor car nearly collapsed going up it- I have no idea how cars got up there pulling a caravan! There were some nearly as bad hills to follow as we drove to Combe Martin. Yet again, I was getting a wake up call about the task in hand!
Anyway we do get to the campsite and I am escorted to the pitch which is numbered and given instructions as to where I can park the car and pitch the tent. Only one problem - the pitch slants in 2 directions I quickly realise that this is going to make sleeping in the tent an act of sleep climbing to stay in the tent and on the thermal mat - not ideal methinks!
It then starts to spot with rain - OK I think Hiro it is time for a cat nap Hiro? - He is in bed already! By the time we wake up it is 2pm - bit late to start walking even a short one! So we decide to do some sightseeing. We visit the Tourist Info Centre where we meet a lovely pair of ladies and we have a long chat about walking, busses and good places to eat! My kind of conversation! In addition one of the ladies was very knowledgeable about the stretch that I would be doing next!
Anyway Combe Martin is a pretty harbour with a very long high street - 2 miles long - granted it is really a long street with shops and services interspersed between many houses! We visited the 'pack of cards' pub which is a very wierd place. History has it that a Duke won the money to build the house in a card game. The pub allegedly has 4 floors, with 13 doors on each floor and 52 windows to symbolise the deck of cards.
Either way it was a funny place which seemed to be a locals pub for a handful of people.
I am still feeling tired and had found it hard to put up the tent as I felt stiff and was starting to have a very irritating cough - anyone would think I had been smoking 40 a day for the last 30 years! So I had another coffee then strolled back to the tent to make tea and have an early night. All to be ready for tomorrows walk!
Hiro is SOOO not objecting!
The best bit about the camp site is that they have a bath albeit at an extra £2 a paddle! I promise myself that I will have a bath before I leave!
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Anyway the upshot was that we left very late!! The car nearly died going up Porlock Hill - now that IS a very big hill! The poor car nearly collapsed going up it- I have no idea how cars got up there pulling a caravan! There were some nearly as bad hills to follow as we drove to Combe Martin. Yet again, I was getting a wake up call about the task in hand!
Anyway we do get to the campsite and I am escorted to the pitch which is numbered and given instructions as to where I can park the car and pitch the tent. Only one problem - the pitch slants in 2 directions I quickly realise that this is going to make sleeping in the tent an act of sleep climbing to stay in the tent and on the thermal mat - not ideal methinks!
It then starts to spot with rain - OK I think Hiro it is time for a cat nap Hiro? - He is in bed already! By the time we wake up it is 2pm - bit late to start walking even a short one! So we decide to do some sightseeing. We visit the Tourist Info Centre where we meet a lovely pair of ladies and we have a long chat about walking, busses and good places to eat! My kind of conversation! In addition one of the ladies was very knowledgeable about the stretch that I would be doing next!
Anyway Combe Martin is a pretty harbour with a very long high street - 2 miles long - granted it is really a long street with shops and services interspersed between many houses! We visited the 'pack of cards' pub which is a very wierd place. History has it that a Duke won the money to build the house in a card game. The pub allegedly has 4 floors, with 13 doors on each floor and 52 windows to symbolise the deck of cards.
Either way it was a funny place which seemed to be a locals pub for a handful of people.
I am still feeling tired and had found it hard to put up the tent as I felt stiff and was starting to have a very irritating cough - anyone would think I had been smoking 40 a day for the last 30 years! So I had another coffee then strolled back to the tent to make tea and have an early night. All to be ready for tomorrows walk!
Hiro is SOOO not objecting!
The best bit about the camp site is that they have a bath albeit at an extra £2 a paddle! I promise myself that I will have a bath before I leave!
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Postcard 5 Porlock Weir to Lynmouth 14.3 miles moderate grading
Well I slept well but Hiro looked a little less refreshed having slept in the car however I think he would have happily curled over and gone back to sleep given the option!
Anyway because we wanted to get an early start we set off as early as we could and left Porlock around 7.30am.
We walked back down to Porlock Weir this time by road. The sun was already shining and as we walked we quickly warmed up and got moving. However when Hiro met 2 dogs on the beach he was rather snappy - most unlike him so think he hadnt yet got his happy head on!
Once we got down to the beach to start the official route we set off on a 2 mile walk up through woods to Culborne Church - this is the smallest church in England still holding regular services- it only holds about 30 people! It was gently nestled in a tiny valley and looked quite beautiful and serene.
Further on in the walk going through the woods I saw the sisters fountain which is amazing as it seems so far from anything civilised. In all honesty it is a mamorial ediface with a double trough just behind it! However the idea that this fountain is so distant from the rest of the world makes it all the more romantic!
There had been a couple of high bits near the edge as we walked along but I was soon to learn that there was worst to come! On this walk it had to be near Countisbury where the coastal path goes round the Foreland point - you have a choice between going round the point or going over the hill to the county road where a pub and the church can be inspected. I sat at the signpost for about 10 minutes panicking over which way to go. For me the choice was over a steep hill (and I was really tired by then ) or going round the edge of the point. I madly, chose the latter and soon discovered this really did mean on the edge of the hill I was terrified and it seemed to go on for ever!
At the bottom of the very long hill I walked into Lynmouth and realised that the only real way to get the bus was to go up the lift to Lynton - this felt like a step to far. It was at this point I was called over by the 3 people I had seen the day before in Bossington with the robin who had just finished their walk - they must have just been in front of me for most of the walk! As we sat and talked over a drink they kindly offered to me a lift back to Porlock this was a double bonus as it meant I didnt need to catch the bus and I didnt need to go up the bloomin lift! Woo hoo how lucky was that?
Back at the tent I was shattered and Hiro and I decided to have an early night! - Again the wind was to blow! We also were going to move camp the following day.
Anyway because we wanted to get an early start we set off as early as we could and left Porlock around 7.30am.
We walked back down to Porlock Weir this time by road. The sun was already shining and as we walked we quickly warmed up and got moving. However when Hiro met 2 dogs on the beach he was rather snappy - most unlike him so think he hadnt yet got his happy head on!
Once we got down to the beach to start the official route we set off on a 2 mile walk up through woods to Culborne Church - this is the smallest church in England still holding regular services- it only holds about 30 people! It was gently nestled in a tiny valley and looked quite beautiful and serene.
Further on in the walk going through the woods I saw the sisters fountain which is amazing as it seems so far from anything civilised. In all honesty it is a mamorial ediface with a double trough just behind it! However the idea that this fountain is so distant from the rest of the world makes it all the more romantic!
There had been a couple of high bits near the edge as we walked along but I was soon to learn that there was worst to come! On this walk it had to be near Countisbury where the coastal path goes round the Foreland point - you have a choice between going round the point or going over the hill to the county road where a pub and the church can be inspected. I sat at the signpost for about 10 minutes panicking over which way to go. For me the choice was over a steep hill (and I was really tired by then ) or going round the edge of the point. I madly, chose the latter and soon discovered this really did mean on the edge of the hill I was terrified and it seemed to go on for ever!
At the bottom of the very long hill I walked into Lynmouth and realised that the only real way to get the bus was to go up the lift to Lynton - this felt like a step to far. It was at this point I was called over by the 3 people I had seen the day before in Bossington with the robin who had just finished their walk - they must have just been in front of me for most of the walk! As we sat and talked over a drink they kindly offered to me a lift back to Porlock this was a double bonus as it meant I didnt need to catch the bus and I didnt need to go up the bloomin lift! Woo hoo how lucky was that?
Back at the tent I was shattered and Hiro and I decided to have an early night! - Again the wind was to blow! We also were going to move camp the following day.
Postcard 3 arriving at Minehead the start of the adventure!
Well Hiro and I managed to find our way to Minehead without too much mishap! We made our way to Porlock, set up camp and then decided to get food and stuff in preparation for our adventure.
We went into Minehead and visited the Tourist Information Centre who were very helpful in providing bus timetables and advice for our first few days. We also managed to get the first 4 path guides to set us up for a clar outline of where to go.
We then went to the local supermarket and stocked up on dog food etc.
Our final mission for our visit to Mindhead was to find the start of the SWCP which was at the far end of the town and gave us our first idea of what this adventure meant. There was a large hill that was going to be our first challenge the next day.
At the campsite we talked to our neighbours who advised that the wind comes in all directions so there was no best way to point the tent. I was invited to join them for a drink and in the ensuing conversation I discovered that the site had many regulars to the site and that this bode well in terms of it being a nice place to be. Long may it continue!
We went into Minehead and visited the Tourist Information Centre who were very helpful in providing bus timetables and advice for our first few days. We also managed to get the first 4 path guides to set us up for a clar outline of where to go.
We then went to the local supermarket and stocked up on dog food etc.
Our final mission for our visit to Mindhead was to find the start of the SWCP which was at the far end of the town and gave us our first idea of what this adventure meant. There was a large hill that was going to be our first challenge the next day.
At the campsite we talked to our neighbours who advised that the wind comes in all directions so there was no best way to point the tent. I was invited to join them for a drink and in the ensuing conversation I discovered that the site had many regulars to the site and that this bode well in terms of it being a nice place to be. Long may it continue!
Postcard 4 Minehead to Porlock Weir 11.5 miles of moderate grading
Well the wind blew so hard all night I thought the fly sheet had come loose!! But 6am and everything is bright and calm. I showered, had breakfast and eventually caught the school bus to Minehead. The kids were amazing and so polite it was scary!! I have been on school busses before and this was nothing like any that I had been on before!
Anyway we got into Minehead , took the obligatory photos and set off. The main hill of the day was North Hill and it took over an hour to climb through the woods! Mind you I did stop a couple or three times. We then walked steadily in glorious sunshine and eventually came down at Hurlestone Combe - this is a dry valley and just keeps going down and down. We stopped at a tea room for a baked potatoe and decent coffee! - Both of which I was grateful for. In the wonderful sunshine of Bossington I sat sand watched as a cheeky robin flew down to the table next to me and litterally pecked the strawberry jam off the scone of a cream tea! He then jumped to another table and when shooed he returned to the original table and as the owner of the tea sat with the pot of jam the robin dipped his beak into the pot and emerged with jam dripping from his beak! Everyone was amazed at the little fella. It transpired that the three people at the table were also doing the SWCP and were staying in Porlock too.
We then walked on to Porlock Weir following the marsh route. Part of the area is a nature conservation area and there are some very dead trees on the marsh which gives it a very lunar effect. The path then goes along the shore which is very pebbly and was quite difficult to walk in comparison to the rest of the walk.
When we got to Porlock Weir Hiro and I had a very pleasant sit down to watch the world go by before walking through the woods up to Porlock to the campsite via the 'all sorts' shop to get meths for the cooking stove. Hiro was wonderful and when we got back to the site he was starving and quickly wanted to go to sleep. I wasnt far behind him to be honest - Ironically as soon as we got to the site the wind kicked up again and I knew we would be in for a windy night! However Hiro refused to come into the tent that night - I have a feeling he was a little scared of sleeping inside a plastic bag!
Tomorrow we need to get an early start as the last bus from Lynmouth is 5pm and I really dont want to miss that!
ps in the book it says 9.5 miles but the walk back to the site was a further 2 miles.
Anyway we got into Minehead , took the obligatory photos and set off. The main hill of the day was North Hill and it took over an hour to climb through the woods! Mind you I did stop a couple or three times. We then walked steadily in glorious sunshine and eventually came down at Hurlestone Combe - this is a dry valley and just keeps going down and down. We stopped at a tea room for a baked potatoe and decent coffee! - Both of which I was grateful for. In the wonderful sunshine of Bossington I sat sand watched as a cheeky robin flew down to the table next to me and litterally pecked the strawberry jam off the scone of a cream tea! He then jumped to another table and when shooed he returned to the original table and as the owner of the tea sat with the pot of jam the robin dipped his beak into the pot and emerged with jam dripping from his beak! Everyone was amazed at the little fella. It transpired that the three people at the table were also doing the SWCP and were staying in Porlock too.
We then walked on to Porlock Weir following the marsh route. Part of the area is a nature conservation area and there are some very dead trees on the marsh which gives it a very lunar effect. The path then goes along the shore which is very pebbly and was quite difficult to walk in comparison to the rest of the walk.
When we got to Porlock Weir Hiro and I had a very pleasant sit down to watch the world go by before walking through the woods up to Porlock to the campsite via the 'all sorts' shop to get meths for the cooking stove. Hiro was wonderful and when we got back to the site he was starving and quickly wanted to go to sleep. I wasnt far behind him to be honest - Ironically as soon as we got to the site the wind kicked up again and I knew we would be in for a windy night! However Hiro refused to come into the tent that night - I have a feeling he was a little scared of sleeping inside a plastic bag!
Tomorrow we need to get an early start as the last bus from Lynmouth is 5pm and I really dont want to miss that!
ps in the book it says 9.5 miles but the walk back to the site was a further 2 miles.
Sunday 1 May 2011
Hi Ho Hi Ho It's off to minehead we go!!!
How scary is this - Finally it is time to get packed up and go to Minehead to get ready for the adventure of a lifetime! 10 days of walking and having a chance to prove myself.
The only drawback is that it is forcast RAIN grr!
Watch out for the new postcards on my blog as they are definately going to be posted very soon but at the latest in weeks time!
The only drawback is that it is forcast RAIN grr!
Watch out for the new postcards on my blog as they are definately going to be posted very soon but at the latest in weeks time!
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